Tuesday, October 22, 2013

The Ups And Downs Of Buying Vintage Watches

Buying vintage cheap watches in not for the faint of heart.  My friend Paul Boutros often says that no matter who you're dealing with, you (as the buyer) are "at war" with the seller.  It's a battle of who knows more about the particular desirability of the watch, who can suss out the over all condition relative to others, and who can play the game better.  Even when you're buying a watch from a known and trusted entity, it's all a struggle.  Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.  In this personal post, I will tell you about the very last watch I purchased, and how it might be the perfect example of how even when you win, you never win as much as you think. 745TDBanty 131022
I had been looking for an old Longines chronograph for years. Probably four years.  I remember the first time I ever came across a great, stainless steel 13ZN at an Antiquorum preview and I fell in love.  Since then, I've come close to buying several gold 13ZN's on many occasions.  But, I have a few inexpensive gold vintage chronographs from the likes of Universal Geneve and Zenith, so I really wanted to hold out for steel.  Obviously, steel is much more wearable for me as a guy who wears a suit exactly one week per year (SIHH in January).
Longines13ZN-31.jpg
 
So, in my nightly browsing for vintage watches, I stumbled across what a dealer described as a 1950s Longines 13ZN.  I looked closer, and to me, it didn't look like it was from the 50's at all. I would've guessed the early 40s.  And then, I looked further still, I saw that there was a singular pusher on this case at 2 o'clock, and nothing at 4 o'clock.  This was a mono-pusher 13ZN.   I sent an email to the dealer, who was a large European seller of both old and new watches, though one I've never dealt with either personally or professionally.  I didn't hear anything back for one week.  I sent a note via the contact form on his website, still nothing.  I was about to give up.
I sent one last email to this dealer from my personal email account and the next morning, I heard back from someone at the shop.  They answered my questions about movement and case numbers, condition, etc to my satisfaction.  I then took the information they had provided me and did quite a bit of research.  I first looked at John Goldberger's book on classic Longines watches (you can see a pictorial display of it here) and saw that 13ZN mono-pushers did not account for many of arguably the largest collection of rare Longines in the world.  That confirmed my suspicion that this watch was rare, and very likely, early.  Then, I reached out to Longines to ask what information they might have on the watch.  Longines has one of the most active heritage departments around, and if you send them a note with your movement and case numbers, they usually get back to you within 24 hours.  It's an amazing service available to all. 
Longines13ZN-33.jpg

Friday, October 18, 2013

Top 5 Most Popular GMT Watches

This week, we're featuring the Top 5 GMT watches —cheap watches that are able to display a second time zone. GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time, the time zone of the United Kingdom. Besides that, GMT is a time system that was adopted in 1884. It originally referred to the mean solar time at the Royal Observatory in London. In Greenwich, London, to be exact.
This time system divides the globe into 24 parts, based on 24 meridians of longitude. Greenwich in London is longitude 0° 0' 0", which makes it GMT. Amsterdam, for example, is in the next zone, and is GMT+1. New York, for instance, is GMT-5 (during winter).
The GMT is one of the most popular complications a watch can have. Although it was meant for pilots who travel through different time zones, business travelers also found their way to these watches.
Most of the time, a GMT watch just features an extra hand that is able to display home time in the 24-hour format (to make a distinction between night and day). The normal hour hand is used to display the time in the current time zone you are in. In some cases, the watch has an extra dial with hour and minute hands to display an extra time zone.
A very useful complication for people who travel a lot to different time zones (and not +1 or -1 only) and want to know what time it is in their home country. It can also be a useful complication if you do a lot of business with people in a certain time zone. Anyway, we also believe a lot of people just buy these watches because they like ‘em without having particular use for the extra time zone indicator. 745TDBanty 131021

5. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time 
 
 
Based on the original Royal Oak Jumbo model from 1972, this Royal Oak Dual Time has the same beautiful finish on case and bracelet and same diameter case. However, where the original Royal Oak had a very plain dial (only hours, minutes and date), this Dual Time has a bit more functionality. Besides an extra dial (located at 6 o’clock) to indicate the second time zone (or home time), there is a separate day/night indicator, a power reserve indicator and a small dial to indicate the date. For those who are able to appreciate the Royal Oak design and travel a lot, this Audemars Piguet seems to be the right choice.
4. Breitling Navitimer World
Another classic in this Top 5 list is this Breitling Navitimer World. The Navitimer goes back to 1952, when Breitling introduced this watch for pilots. With its slide rule, it enabled them to calculate things like remaining fuel and ground speed. Actually, it can be used for a whole range of basic math like multiplications and divisions and so on. Anyway, Breitling decided to add another useful complication for pilots and travelers on their Navitimer. The Navitimer World features an extra hand to indicate a second time zone. The slender long hand with the red tip indicates home time on a 24-hour scale.
3. Panerai Luminor GMT

Another watch that finds it roots in the military world, the Panerai Luminor GMT. Panerai is able to apply its successful design to a lot of different watches, including this GMT watch. The dial of this Panerai Luminor has a 24-hour scale printed on the outer part of it. The long hand with the triangular tip reaches out to this scale to indicate home time. The 24-hour scale, of course, immediately indicates whether it is day or night. The hour and minute hand are skeletonized, which makes it possible to overlap the 24-hour hand without making it disappear and make it unreadable. The popularity of Panerai seems to be unstoppable — it even found its way in this list of classic and iconic timepieces.
2. Rolex Explorer II 
This brand is responsible for the No. 1 in this list, as well. But first things first: the Explorer II. Recently updated with a slightly larger case, an upgraded bracelet and a dial with a large orange second hand that has clearly been influenced by those very first Explorer II watches from the 1970s. The large orange hour indicator points toward the stainless-steel bezel that has the 24-hour scale engraved. Originally meant for cave explorers who didn’t have a clue about day or night anymore. However, it can also be used as an extra time zone indicator.
1. Rolex GMT-Master II
King of the list: the Rolex GMT-Master II. Originally developed in the early 1950s with the help of Pan Am pilots who needed a watch that could indicate an extra time zone. This current Rolex GMT-Master II has a bi-directional bezel with the 24-hour scale, making it possible to indicate even a third time zone. Just a few years ago, Rolex decided to upgrade the good ol’ blue and red Rolex GMT-Master II model and make it a bit more fancy with this ceramic bezel and polished center link. The 24-hour indicator also turned green (instead of red). The normal hour hand can be set independently from the other hands, so it is very easy to set the time for the time zone you are located in. The 24-hour hand points toward home time, using the 24-hour scale on the bezel as day/night indicator.


 

Thursday, October 17, 2013

When is Thanksgiving Day?

What Date Does Thanksgiving Day Fall on in 2013? 
In 2013, Thanksgiving Day will fall extremely late in the month of November. This is either good news, or bad news, depending on your Christmas shopping habits. 
Thanksgiving Day will be on November 28, 2013, very nearly the last day of the month. Of course, this means that Black Friday will not happen until November 29, which makes the official Christmas shopping season shorter than usual.
Last year, Thanksgiving fell nearly a week earlier, on November 22. The holiday can fall on any date between November 22 – November 28. Next year will be another late year for Thanksgiving, with the holiday taking place on November 27. It will be on November 26 in 2015.  745TDBanty 131016
For more thanksgiving day sales and thanksgiving day gift ideas,go to:http://www.eachmall.com/promo/thanksgiving-day/

Friday, October 11, 2013

Never Host a Halloween Party on Halloween

Here’s what happens: A friend approaches and says, “Hey, come to my Halloween party!” She is excited. Her eyes bulge. She can’t wait for costumes and games and tons of booze.
“Great!” I exclaim. “When is it?”
“Duh,” says my friend. “On Halloween.”
“Oh,” I say. “Well…”
And now we’re stuck, because I already have plans for Halloween. Actually, my datebook is absolutely crammed with Halloween plans. The parties begin at sundown and continue until dawn. They take place in separate houses in completely different neighborhoods. I’m already dreading the commute from one house to another, partly because I can’t enjoy myself at any given party, and partly because the roads will overflow with drunk drivers dressed as vampires.
Year after year I ask myself: Why does anyone throw a Halloween party on Halloween?
Unlike every other holiday on the Gregorian calendar, Halloween is a genuinely fun time, no matter how old or young you are. As a child, Halloween equals weird outfits and pillowcases full of candy. As a college student, Halloween means sexy nurses and beer. As an adult, Halloween means ironic costumes and slightly more expensive beer. You may be 100 years old with two hip replacements, and Halloween can still be fun; as long as you are physically able to give trick-or-treaters their Kit-Kats, everybody’s happy. Crikey, if you’re 100 years old and still answering the door, you won’t even need a costume.
For most red-blooded Americans, Christmas is stressful and tedious, and New Year’s is full of head-splitting regret. Thanksgiving is routine, and Easter-slash-Passover doesn’t count for much in secular homes. Unless you’re a raging fan of Memorial Day cookouts or Fourth of July fireworks, all these holidays tend to blend together. And unless your uncle and your stepdad get into a fistfight and everybody starts crying, each Labor Day is about as memorable as any other.
But Halloween? Halloween is hallowed, man.

The problem is this: October 31st doesn’t hold much significance to the plastic-trident crowd, so why host a Halloween party on that particular evening? Unless you’re such a diehard Catholic that you’ve already stocked up on All Saints Day candles, Halloween might as well happen the same week as the Super Bowl. Most people don’t even know where Halloween comes from. If Walgreens is selling severed hands and fake cobwebs at the end of August, why would anyone need to wait till October 31st to put dry ice in their punch?
The answer: An actual Halloween party is a status symbol.
If I host a party on October 31st, and all my friends drop everything to be there, then I win. People showed up at my party, not Cindy’s or Webster’s or Jake’s. And if they did hurry off to Jake’s house, because they heard about Jake’s zombie-themed foam party, friends have to apologize and make up excuses and promise to “definitely come back later.” They’ll leave a few bottles of Dead Guy Ale as a peace offering. They will call later, deeply distressed, because they want to come over, but they’re just so tired.
The smart host will anticipate all this nonsense and just host a party the weekend before, or even the weekend before that. You can’t move Hanukah, but you can most certainly reschedule the world’s most arbitrary holiday. Ghouls and demons are timeless, and if you ask me, so are sexy nurses. Earlier in the month, you can buy pumpkins and animatronic skeletons for a song. Friends will come over, stay for hours, and actually enjoy themselves. They get to test-drive their costumes, because the pressure is so low.
“Oh, this?” goes the conversation. “It’s an Atari T-shirt. I’m a nerd from the Eighties.”
“Nice. I’m Charlie Brown.”
“Oh, because the black stripe.”
“Yeah. See, you get it.”
Nice and simple.
Halloween night should be reserved for the people who really appreciate it. No, not Satan’s minions. I mean children. I mean grade-schoolers in rubber masks, who show up at your door and awkwardly beg for candy as their parents glare at you from an idling car. Trick-or-treating is one of the last great vestiges of Americana, and only a total egomaniac would steal that from the hands of 10-year-olds.
One of my favorite Halloween parties was held in mid-summer, at the apartment of my friends Ringa and Maria. The afternoon was sweltering, and the sun wouldn’t set until 8 p.m., so I wore cargo shorts, a green T-shirt, and a bandanna around my forehead. When people asked who I was, I said, “Chuck Norris.” (They loved it).
 
Nowadays, what Halloween celebrates is neither axe-murderers nor Celtic spirits, but the pleasures of imagination. The act of dressing up, decorating a house, and hosting a vice-driven theme-party is its own reward. It's a chance to play, just as freely as when we were fourth graders. Imagination doesn’t spark on October 30th, nor is it doused on November 1st. And Candy Corn is delicious any time of year.  745TDBanty 131012
Now pass me that skull-chalice. I must toast the creatures of the night.

Easy Cheap DIY Halloween Decorations

 










If you want to decorate your house for All Hallow’s Eve, but don’t want to spend a lot of money, then these easy DIY decorations may be the way to show your scary side.
Celebrate the spookiest holiday with easy decorations that require few instructions and even fewer materials — all of which are affordable.
Masks on Pictures
Cutting out mask shapes and placing them over the face of family photos, paintings and other portraits is an easy way to add a little mystery to your home and its occupants.
Materials to make masks include construction paper, vinyl, dry-erase marker on glass, feathers, silk flowers or leaves, glitter and more.
Attach masks to pictures using non-toxic or archival tape, ribbons or string, depending on the surface.
For pictures under glass, stick pre-cut vinyl or freehand with dry erase markers directly onto the glass surface.
Pumpkins
This easy tradition can make a big impact in a space. Paint them, carve them, drill them, stick tape or paper on them or leave them plain. Display them in a group or individually by putting them in a basket or container, stacking them or just grouping them together.
Instructions for drilling pumpkins into interesting luminaries can be found on Martha Stewart, of course.
Fabric Dust Covers
Head to the thrift store and snag some inexpensive white sheets. Then, toss them over furniture. Does it get much easier than that?
Bonus: you pretty much won’t have to dust through the month of October. You’re welcome.
Black Candles
Pull out your candlesticks, candelabras or other candle holders. Don’t even bother polishing them (tarnished is spooky, right?) and place black candles in them. Group them together for a dramatic effect on a table or mantle.
Garlands
If you have been to a party in the last four years, you’ve likely encountered an array of banners, garlands or bunting. The classic party decoration has become a boon in the craft industry.
Think big and kitsch with garlands. Attach anything from die-cut paper to plastic bugs and skeletons to a long string and you’ve got yourself a Halloween-themed garland. Even easier, thread some black and orange pom-poms (using a needle) or beads onto the string. Hang from a wall, moulding, bed posts or any other surface your heart desires.
Sneaky Shadows
Anything that can be illuminated can have a shadow. Think lampshades, windows and nightlights.
Using vinyl, construction paper or butcher paper, cut out a shape of a sneaky figure, bats, bugs, cats and the like.
Stick shapes onto glass or lamps using non-toxic tape, taking care that the “shadows” are a safe distance from hot light bulbs or flame.
Creepy Crawly Bugs
If they won’t creep you out, affix plastic bugs to walls and furniture (not upholstery) using poster putty or double-sided tape. Create a trail with them or affix individual insects throughout your home. Warn guests at your discretion.
Kleenex Ghosts
This easy craft has been made by kids in elementary schools everywhere, it’s that easy.
Take a facial tissue, crumple it into a ball, then take another tissue and place the ball in the center, wrapping the tissue around the ball. Loop a string around the bottom of the ball, making a head and ghost body. Use a permanent marker to make two dots for eyes.
Attaching one end of a longer string from the loop, hang your ghost from light fixtures, mantles, pictures, staircases, doorways, curtain rods, chairs or whatever else you can tie them to. Display a few together for an after-worldly display.
Bat Cave
Fold black construction paper in half and cut out half a bat shape on the fold. Repeat until you have all you want.
Affix them to walls surrounding windows or doors and it will look like bats are heading back to their cave after a tiring night of scavenging for food. Hang some upside down from a curtain rod, mantle or headboard to imitate the sleeping winged mammals.  745TDBanty 131012
For more ideas of Halloween Decorations, go to:http://www.eachmall.com/promo/holiday-halloween/
2013 Halloween Sale 
From:http://www.eachcontroller.com/2013/10/12/easy-cheap-diy-halloween-decorations/

5 Watches With Diamonds That Men Can Actually Wear

Yes, we’re talking men’s watches with diamonds in this week’s Fratello Friday. No, don’t click away from this post just yet.  I am aware that this is a bit of a tricky subject, since most men don’t like to wear diamonds. However, a lot of men who love watches do have respect for the work that goes into diamonds — the cutting, polishing, setting, et cetera.
Ever since I visited the Bunter factory just outside Geneva (read more about my visit in this article from my blog, Fratellowatches.com), a company that specializes in cutting and setting diamonds for cheap watches from Cartier, Patek Philippe, Hublot and others, my interest in diamonds and diamond-setting has increased. I was actually the first journalist who got to see that company’s entire process from A to Z. It was an amazing experience, and taught me that even some of the biggest names oin watchmaking, such as Cartier and Patek Philippe, entrust the work on their diamond-set master pieces to outside experts.
I still wouldn’t normally be inclined to wear a watch with diamonds myself, but when I thought about the few that I would, I came up with the following list.
1.Rolex Day-Date Ref. 118238
The Rolex Day-Date on President bracelet with diamond hour markets is, perhaps, a rather safe choice, but it is certainly a watch that does look good with diamonds, and those who notice won’t ask questions. This classic 36-mm timepiece only comes in gold or platinum, and the diamonds have been perfectly set. Whether you are a drug kingpin (hopefully not) or an internet entrepreneur, this watch will fit your style.
www.watchtime.com | blog  | Fratello Friday: 5 Watches With Diamonds That Men Can Actually Wear | Rolex DayDate 118238 500
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402B ‘Jumbo’
I love the Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ (as can be seen here) and, although I firmly believe that an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak should be in stainless steel (especially the ‘Jumbo’ or ‘Extra-Thin’ editions), I’ll make an exception for this white-gold model from 1980, with diamond hour markers on the dial. Despite the diamonds and the white-gold case and bracelet, the watch is about as thin as the traditional Royal Oak “Jumbo,” thanks to its use of the beautiful, extra-thin, self-winding Caliber 2121. (Photo courtesy of Antiquorum.)
www.watchtime.com | blog  | Fratello Friday: 5 Watches With Diamonds That Men Can Actually Wear | AP Royal Oak 5402B 500 3. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5713
In the same category as the Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’, this white-gold Nautilus ref.5713 would also be a fine choice if you’re going for a little “bling.” The Royal Oak has a bit more of a masculine look due to the sharp edges and corners in the case design, but a man could pull off this Patek Philippe Nautilus as well. I would rather see the diamonds on the hour markers than a diamond-studded bezel, which would make it look a bit more toned down. However, the ‘integrated’ design of the Nautilus makes this design work. Some Nautilus watches from the past had diamond hour markers, but these were on the smaller Reference 3800 models. (Photo courtesy of Antiquorum.)
www.watchtime.com | blog  | Fratello Friday: 5 Watches With Diamonds That Men Can Actually Wear | Patek Philippe Nautilus 5713 500 4. Panerai Luminor
In my opinion, for a men’s watch to look right with diamonds, the watch itself needs to be distinctively masculine. Perhaps the Nautilus above is a bit of an exception, but I will make up for that with this Panerai Luminor with diamond-set hour markers. Both the Arabic numerals as well as the stick markers are diamond-studded. This one is a rare edition from 2002; only 100 were made. No, diamonds on a military-style watch do not really make any sense, but neither does a tourbillon movement in a divers’ watch (also from Panerai). Who seems to care, anyway? (Photo courtesy of Antiquorum.)
www.watchtime.com | blog  | Fratello Friday: 5 Watches With Diamonds That Men Can Actually Wear | Panerai Luminor 500
5.  Rolex Submariner ‘Serti’
Another Rolex made the list. The Rolex Submariner in gold/steel (also referred to by collectors as the “Clown”) is available in this “Serti” version. “Serti” is from the French word sertissage, which means “setting stones.” Available with several dial colors and precious stones, the Submariner “Serti” is a watch for which you can easily swap the dial for a normal “Clown” dial when you’ve had your fill of wearing diamonds. After all, there are plenty of these watches and parts for them on the market. If you make friends with a watchmaker, you can even periodically switch dials to suit your needs. As with the Panerai, it really doesn’t make sense to put diamonds on a divers’ watch, but it is more about style than practicality when we’re talking about diamond watches. After all, how many Submariner watches, with or without diamonds, will ever see water, other than in a shower or bath? (Photo courtesy of Antiquorum.) 745TDBanty 131011